Disco Clam

2/5/19

BLUE HOLES

Our first dive of the day was the Blue Holes. There are several "holes" but when people say "the holes" this is where they are referring to. First, you drop down the vertical tunnel, lined with hard and soft corals alike. Then, you make your way through the tunnel and out another hole to a higher reef right on the edge of Blue Corner. It is amazing that all these tiny fish can handle the current so well. Some of the fish were even swimming upside down here, like this lion fish, but not as many as what we found in Siaes Tunnel.

An finally, A DISCO CLAM!!! After shining a flashlight on this marvelous, he began to emit a silver dancing glow while his bright red fleshy whiskers danced about in water's movement (which really wasn't much but it makes the mental image better). 

  

Masked Bannerfish

Clark's Anemonefish

Checkerboard Wrasse

Spadefish

After breakfast, we took the little boat to a an island with a burial cave. First time on land in several days, which was quite an interesting feeling. Pretty weird, actually. This is the longest I've ever been on a boat at a single time. Usually, you can wade in. Today, however, the water level was high and we had to swim out, battling the rocks and coral on the way. The cave held human remains, some of which were as recent the last couple hundred years. In 2011, a typhoon covered the cave entrance, scattering and damaging the bones which had been mostly untouched before. In-between taking off my fins, one of my bracelets flew away in the waves. Anyone who knows me, knows they are a part of me, so of course I had to get it back. A fin escaped me, and my father and I got thrown against the rocks, probably because my focus was elsewhere. I got my bracelet! And the boat hunted down my fin, which thankfully floated around at the surface. They're going to try and get me a cooler scar though. Angry natives, 25ft sharks, all the exciting stuff. (those things really don't exist, but there has to be something better...)

PELELIU

Off to Peleliu, population 500. Many of the Palauans are from the island, but end up moving to Koror. They have one police  chief, and everyone knows each other.  We met Des of Peleliu Adventure Tours, who took us on a several hour historical war tour of the island.

    

Japanese Headquarters

You can still tell how nice this building used to be from the remnants of crown molding and floor tiling. 

First Days on The Sea

2/2/19

At 5:30am- it was time to move. We headed out further from Koror; my father and Troy went on their first dive while we headed to the beach in the smaller boat and took a shore dive with the captain to complete our first of four mandatory open water dives before certification. A nap and several hours later, we took our second dive off the boat. Back in Dallas, we completed all of our instruction, test, and pool dives with Janie over at Scuba Source. She works out of her home pool, and I highly recommend her for anyone in Dallas looking to get PADI certified. She's great! Reasonable pricing, and private classes at her Bahama-esque home with a heated pool. http://www.thescubasource.com/

2/3/19

Our first dive was at 7am at the Ulong Sandbar. We made our first stop at the cleaning station where a young manta ray was being serviced. He circled around the entire time we were sitting at the bottom, which we did for a while. These are such inredible animals!

Black Morph Manta, 8Ball

ULONG WALL

Morray Eel

Now, we're certified! And to begin Nitrox certification which we should obtain sometime next week.

2/4/29

BLUE CORNER

The current at Blue Corner was pretty strong and required the use of a reef hook so that we could remain in the same spot while watching the action around us. Many sharks could be seen here, as well as large groups of schooling fishes. A small  Napoleon wrasse, craving attention, swam right up, bumping into me and getting all up in my face. I gave him a nice pet (he was quite soft), then he visited Ken and my father for more attention. He must have been just as curious about us as we were him. This guy was huge, to me anyway, but smaller in the grand scheme of things and maybe around 4 years old.

Napoleon Wrasse 

GERMAN CHANNEL

In search of nudibranchs, we headed back to the German channel. Because the water was so much clearer than the day before, and the moon had changed, we went back to to the cleaning station where we saw three huge mantas. Each circled the cleaning station for a good 5-10 minutes before the next would arrive. I have always been fascinated by rays and have only seen one beneath the water's surface while on a boat or in aquariums. There were lots of teensy tiny garden eels and goby shrimp holes nearby as well. They have some kind of special relationship which I will get into later. So fun to watch!

The Palau Adventure - Takeoff

6 months or so ago, my father announced that we were going to Palau, no exceptions. It has been at least 7 years since we have taken an official family trip. It's a place I saw in National Geographic growing up, but never really imagined I would go and has been known to have the best diving in the world. Fantastic! My first scuba trip and it's all downhill from here.

Sayin' hey to Hawaii on the way (I still miss it)

Flight out of Dallas was 5:40am to Houston, then to Hawaii, then to Guam, then finally to Palau. 24+ hours later, we finally made it. We arrived around 9pm met with the owners of the live-aboard to discuss route plans, and headed to bed after watching a video of sharks rip apart  manta ray that had died the day before. You could hear all the ripping and chewing. Sound is crazy underwater.
Where the hell is Palau!? You might ask. It's right here, in the middle of the Pacific! What is Palau? Remember the Battle of Peleliu?

Palau was declared independent in 1994. Their first language is a local Palauan language and second is English. So far, everyone has been extremely friendly, people in cars waving and yelling good morning as they passed us on our morning walk. Lots of dogs, and chickens. SO MANY Chickens. And if you wear more than shorts and T-shirt, you are overdressed.

My first impression is similar to Hawaii and Taiwan. Very tropical and jungly. We encountered these neat little ground ferns that close when you touch them. Many of the chickens we saw were tied up so they wouldn't run off (or most likely fight each other). They were also of the cock fighting variety, so maybe these were the special, prize chickens.

                               

After exploring Koror for a while, the most populated city of Palau, we made our way to the dock where we were greeting by a swarm of goldens, Mochi quickly losing interest in us to go chase crabs on the dock. She's never caught one.

All aboard Ocean Hunter III, the newest and largest of the Ocean Hunter fleet. Previously an Australian research vessel, this boat was perfectly renovated and equipped for diving and rough seas.

A Birthday in Paris

I arrived at CDG Sunday evening. Met up with my European sales rep, and headed to Issoudan for a customer meeting the next day. It was a three hour drive from Paris through the countryside, unfortunately at night when it was hard to see. After our meeting that morning, we made our way to Versailles where we stayed the night. The riots had calmed down a little at this point, but we still had some fun navigating around where the yellow vests had blocked.

The evening of November 26th was spent in good company with Stephane and friend Baptiste, who I met through CouchSurfing in Dallas years ago, and a big ol' half wheel of stinky cheese. I've had raclette before, but never in the traditional fashion. It has always been brought out, already melted, on a plate with some fingerling potatoes. This day, I got to eat the real deal and it was all I had ever hoped and dream for. Although the ride back to Versailles was absolutely miserable; I don't think I've ever eaten so much food, not to mention this much cheese in one setting. It doesn't look like much but trust me- that was a LOT of cheese.

  

Although I have been to Paris many times, I had not been to Versailles. After the morning meeting, we walked the gardens a bit- This place is HUGE! And I mean huge, beyond huge. How nice it would have been to be royalty back in the day- I could have wandered these grounds for hours every day! After another successful meeting, Stephane dropped me of at the Champs, which only 2 days prior, was covered in broken glass and other riot remains. Totally calm, however, like nothing had happened. Surreal almost.

I then began my 45 minute pilgrimage to Le Murice, where I had hoped to meet Cedric Grolet, world famous pastry chef (he won world's best this year), and eat one of his beautiful and supremely expensive deserts. I arrived at the employee entrance, which looked so nice I thought it was the main entry. Main entry was closed. THE PASTRY SHOP HAD CLOSED EARLY - SOLD OUT. "Cedric is here sometimes" one of the men said, as I died on the inside. Was he there today? Should I have asked this, or would they have mentioned? HOW CAN I MEET THIS GOD OF PASTRIES!? I would have broken down that fancy door right into that kitchen. Never in my life have I wanted to meet someone so badly, and tell them how much I admired their work. All the way from Dallas, TX, I stood in the rain unable to comprehend why I was unable to do to one thing I had dreamed of on my birthday and admitted defeat. Defeated, I found a a bar with snacks, had a few beers and began to work on this blog, which I have been horrible about doing for quite some time now. At least that came of it, but I left feeling sad and empty inside. Dear Cedric, I will be back.

Baptiste decided to make dinner. And of course, more cheese- fondue! We hit up the local cheese shop, bought a baguette and birthday pastry, and headed back to his flat to prepare the melty goodness. When I inquired about putting meat in the fondue, he quickly proceeded to tell me that no such adultery of cheese would be allowed inside his apartment. If I wanted to put anything other than bread in that pot, it could be done outside in the hallway, away from view. I accepted, and instead remained inside for the night. A few friends came to join, then the cheese and wine feast began.

After all the fondue was eaten up, Baptiste came out of the kitchen with a block of Rochefort, two sticks of lit incense poked inside. What else could I ever ask for? A most excellent birthday indeed.

Amsterdam

I had never really wanted to visit Amsterdam. I assumed it was the Vegas of Europe. However, a French friend I trust very much had suggested I visit, as he said it was a beautiful city. Our last appointment was scheduled for Friday near Frankfurt, Germany. Amsterdam was close by, and I have a friend that lives there as well. Might as well just see what it's about.

I spent 2 days cooped up in the flat, working until after 9pm, as the time difference doesn't allow me to end my work with the office back home until around then, if I'm lucky. We finally ventured to the city Friday night and the very moment we exited the train station to the city center, I was in love. The buildings, the lights, the atmosphere, all of it.

We went to Bar Joe, a bar lounge kinda place, to meet up with some fellow Couch Surfers. Not too many were there that night, but we had a fun time playing Cards Against Humanity with people from various parts of the world. This proved to be interesting, as the game is American and the humor didn't directly translate for all parties involved. I also had the worst hand I've ever gotten and don't think I won a single card that night. Of course, the French and his horrible humor won. Defeated by the day, we surrendered for the night.


                             

Saturday, we headed to the city to check out a few museums. The city is so quite without all the cars. So beautiful and so peaceful! After our delicious Italian lunch, we couldn't help but make a stop into this cute little bakery and to a chocolate shop as well. Everything here is tiny and cute.

                 

       Passion fruit mousse cake                                                            Rose Meringue

First museum was Electric Ladyland, a tribute to Jimmy Hendrix. Everything inside glows with UV and black light. The museum had everything from office supplies, money from around the world, to artwork, old marbles, security features, and black light tattoo ink. It was the entire history of fluorescence and it was absolutely fascinating. We were shocked, and horrified to discover that many people that visit the museum don't find it all that intriguing. They were more concerned with what their ID card or passports looked like under the lights than the natural stones or art piece the owner made from scratch over 7 years. To date, the most interesting museum I have ever crawled down a little ladder through a basement into.

The museum owner crushed the powder to make the pigments, sculpted, and painted this piece!

                       

Next stop, the Cheese Museum! Of course, I couldn't pass this up. I picked up a couple of cheeses for home, and we selected a few for that night as well as some delicious jams to dip in. After a trip to the grocery store for pickles and sliced meets, we headed back to relax a little before going back out to meet up with the Couch crew at Joe's again.

Even the Red Light district wasn't what I expected. Yes, there are shows and girls in windows. But the girls were in cute clothes (not much, however) and stood in the windows of cute buildings that matched the surrounding areas. They were selling sex, but it didn't come off as trashy and disgusting as I had imagined. The streets also weren't flooded with drugs. Most enjoyed their joints within the comforts of the cafes, and I didn't see a single person acting a fool on the streets. The energy here is just amazing; people are calm, friendly, and helpful. Maybe otherwise can be said about the spring and summer; I'll just have to find out in a few months when I return.


 The Bar Joe experience turned into CS making friends with everyone in the bar. We stayed for hours chatting with locals and travelers alike, but mostly locals. Then, off to a club where we did some dancing until the wee hours and finally had to call it a night. Have I told you how awesome the CS community is? Well, here I go again. 

I almost missed my flight back to the states. This has been happening too often recently, for various reasons, different each time, 98% out of my control. I did sleep through my alarm...once. This morning, my phone decided it wouldn't pull up my boarding pass. I decided to restart it, and it didn't want to turn back on. Throughout all of this, the ticket counter had closed, and they closed the security entrance I was about to head through. Phone finally started cooperating and I made a mad dash to the other side of the terminal. Of course, the cheese and small bottle of sand from the bull arena in my bag caused concern, so they searched my bag. Definitely the nicest TSA I have ever encountered. So of course, I took advantage and asked some questions that might get me pulled aside, asking the wrong agent on the wrong day. How many drugs do you find on a daily basis? How do you find them? What happens when this occurs? All happily answered by a friendly agent. This was also the first day I stepped foot into the body scanners because I sure didn't want to request a pat down in Amsterdam. No strip search for me, thanks.

I made it to the gate just in time to be one of the last people on the plane. And off I went, back to America, after being questioned again at the gate per my normal European exit as a solo traveler that frequents Europe several times a year. Suspicious? Apparently.

Espana

Business, holidays, and birthday- Time for Europe!

11-22, arrival in Madrid. 4 hours of driving, and we are finally in... I have no idea. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere, some medieval village. My mother has acquired a little farmhouse which will be renovated within the year. Her artist friend has purchased the old olive oil mill to transform into a bed and breakfast. Everything will stay as is, just cleaned up and added onto in the same original fashion is was originally built. No new buildings will be permitted in the village, only this type of renovation.

After arriving at the farmhouse where we will have Thanksgiving, we ventured out to the old castle which remains in ruins since the French blew it up, partially. A nice, dramatic foggy day. The vibe is great. Here with us, we have an artist couple, Joseph (future B&B owner) and a Greek makeup artist from LA. And of course, our Spanish friends, who have never experienced American Thanksgiving.

 

After exploring some, we headed back to begin meal prep. The turkey is cooking in a wood fired oven while we prepare all else with farm fresh or wild ingredients. Mother has brought a US turkey with her, and we have a local one as well.

 

Hours and many beers and wines later, our feast is  ready. The Greek finally emerges from her room after a day, bearing chopsticks for her meal. Why haven't I thought of this? All meals should be eaten with chopsticks or fingers, we certainly both agree. All conversation turns to Spanish. They speak differently than what is spoken in Texas, and much faster. It is harder to understand but I do my best. Finally, the pumpkin pie is served- it was a big hit. We have been asked to come back next year. Why not!?

The next day, we drive out to the mill. What a cool place. This will be great once finished, I can't wait to see it! They are also currently working on a train, as the only option is to drive. Multiple hours.

                       

Off to Seville!  I had wanted to get more tattoos while travelling and found Juanma only 2 weeks prior to my trip. Thankfully, he had some time Friday evening. 2.5 hours later, my angler fish was finished. Then, off to enjoy the night! I'll definitely be back in April to balance out the other side with another interesting sea critter. 

Check out Juanma's work, @tres_lagrimas 

Saturday, I headed out to the large cathedral located in the city center which was probably one of the most impressive I have ever visited. You feel high just walking around, I'm not sure how else to explain it. So old, so majestic, so big, so much history.

                                                                                              Grave of Columbus

There are oranges EVERYWHERE in this city. I hear they aren't the kind you want to eat, but they do make the spring air smell of orange blossom. Beautiful; that's one of my favorite smells, but too bad it is winter now!

After, I checked out some art galleries and wandered to the bull arena. Pretty neat. Although I love animals and do not wish for their inevitable death in the ring, it is very different from the bull fighting found elsewhere in the world, which is more of a sport murder display.

                                                          First and only bull ever

                                                                                             pardoned at this arena.

Caught a flight the next day to Paris, ending my nice little adventure in Spain. See ya Spain- I'll be back soon!